The year was 1999. “Fierce” described wild animals, not wannabe
models. “Wife swapping” wasn't mentioned on network TV. And
celebrity magazines couldn't stop talking about Calista
Flockhart, aka Ally McBeal, and whether her protruding bones
were caused by an eating disorder or just an exceptionally small
appetite.

Getty Images
Black is slimming, but
someone ought to tell Mary-Kate Olsen, Calista
Flockhart, Ellen Pompeo and Nicole Richie (from
left)that's the last thing they need. Hollywood
actresses are slinking right past svelte to
skeletal.
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Flockhart is back on TV with a new
show, “Brothers & Sisters,” premiering tonight on ABC. Unless
her rib cage starts looking like a glockenspiel again, her
birdlike body will hardly merit a second glance. TV and movies
are chock-full of hungry actresses, and we're not talking about
their quest for fame. At a time when the rest of America is
bulking up on foot-long subs and all-you-can-eat buffets,
Hollywood's female stars are wasting away.
Mary-Kate Olsen, treated for
anorexia. Lindsay Lohan copped to bulimia. Nicole Richie looks
like her head might topple off her frail little shoulders, and
you could hammer a nail with Keira Knightley's clavicle.
Flockhart's new TV home should be renamed the Anorexia Bulimia
Company – the network's leading ladies include “Grey's
Anatomy's” Ellen Pompeo, who's built like the skeletons in the
medical book that gave her show its name, Desperately Thin
Housewife Teri Hatcher, not to mention her castmates, who were
all looking starkly angular late last season. (Marcia Cross
admitted to a British magazine that staying thin was “a living
hell.” She apparently sneaked some carbs here and there, because
she's pregnant at 44.)
Fan mags engage in a
gladiator-like, new celebrity mom competition, capturing them
looking puffy and haggard and then keeping score of who is
shamed into crash-dieting to drop that disgusting weight they
put on while growing a new human.
Even Katie Couric's hips were
airbrushed off the page in a network promo shot.
“This extreme, severe,
emaciated level of thinness seems to be the new optimal,” said
Naomi Wolf, author of the 1991 book, “The Beauty Myth: How
Images of Beauty Are Used Against Women.” “Human beings aren't
made like that. They don't look like that unless there's
something terribly wrong.”
No one, except perhaps the
stars themselves, knows for sure who is maintaining their
skin-and-bones look through actual eating disorders, or other by
other means, like the drug-and-alcohol diet, or the
cigarettes-and-coffee diet.
No matter the methods, in this
celebrity-worshipping, media-saturated age, concentration-camp
chic is getting seared into our consciousness like an ahi tuna
salad, hold the dressing and the fish.
This might have no effect at
all on a self-assured grown-up who thinks size 0 sounds like
clothes for someone who'd rather be invisible.
But for many women and girls,
being anything other than hyper-thin is grounds for feeling like
an ogre.

DAN TREVAN /
Union-Tribune
Maryanne Murphy, a
21-year-old college student from Fallbrook, battled
an eating disorder before coming to appreciate her
size 10 figure, curves and all. Trying to stay
skinny was "completely exhausting," she said. "I am
who I am, and I don't think there's any reason to be
ashamed of that."
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“We have a world of people,
especially young girls, who think what they weigh is more
important than who they are,” said Carolyn Costin, clinical
director of the Eating Disorder Center of California, where
“American Idol” runner-up Katharine McPhee told People magazine
she sought treatment for bulimia. “For every girl with anorexia,
I see 200 girls that are under the radar. They wake up every
morning feeling fat. They say they'd rather be dead than fat.”
A 1991 study found 42 percent
of first-to third-grade girls wanted to be thinner, while 81
percent of 10-year-olds were afraid of being fat. The data is 15
years old, said Lynn Grefe, executive director of the National
Eating Disorders Association, but the aversion to fat has likely
only gotten more exaggerated.
“Everybody has been
brainwashed. I grew up with my mother talking about Marilyn
Monroe, and I thought it was OK to be shapely and curvy,” Grefe
said. “Young people now are scared of any fat.”
When Maryanne Murphy was a
teenager, she started vomiting after meals to control her
weight. “The need to be skinny to fit into society is totally
overwhelming,” said Murphy, now a 21-year-old student at Mira
Costa College. “Look at magazines, movies, posters. Everywhere
you go you see this model of what a woman is supposed to be, and
she's size 0.”
Murphy overcame bulimia after
her sister, then 8, tearfully pleaded with Murphy to stop making
herself sick. Today, at 5 feet 6 inches and 160 pounds, Murphy
is comfortable with her curves, though she's going to Weight
Watchers to lose 10 pounds.

Associated Press
(left), CBS Watch! (right)
Katie Couric must have
looked too chubby in the photo at left, because
someone at CBS felt compelled to shave a few inches
off her waistline.
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“I'm never going to be a size 0 or
a size 2, and it's OK,” she said. “This is who I was made to be.
And I like me the way I am.”
Like Murphy, the majority of
women understand, intellectually, that the glamour they see on
their TVs and in magazines and on billboards is manufactured –
either achieved with personal chefs, trainers, nannies and a
genetic tendency toward preferring carrot sticks to Snickers
bars, or simply photo-shopped and flat out phony.
Some 81 percent of women in the
U.S. strongly agreed that “the media and advertising set an
unrealistic standard of beauty that most women can't ever
achieve,” and 75 percent would like to see more images of
diverse beauty, according to a recent survey commissioned by
Dove, the soap company.
Yet, women, and increasingly
men, keep trying. One quarter of American men and 45 percent of
American women are dieting on any given day. Americans spend a
reported $40 billion on dieting and diet-related products a
year. When that doesn't work, hundreds of thousands turn to
plastic surgery and liposuction.
Manufacturers now vanity-size
clothing, believing correctly that women would rather buy a size
8 than a size 12, even if the size 8 is so roomy it looks like a
“before” pants held up by the formerly fat guy in the diet ads.
While it's easy to blame the
stick-figure trend entirely on the
entertainment/fashion/advertising industries, which bombard us
with an endless parade of malnourished nymphets, we're the ones
buying the products and the magazines.

EVAN AGOSTINI / Getty
Images
Author Naomi Wolf sees
the waif trend as an attempt to make women seem less
powerful.
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And when someone we know slims
down, we praise them lavishly, begging them to share in great
detail (portion size? low carb? weekly meetings?) about how they
achieved such a monumental feat.
“It's almost like every human
being I meet thinks they should be loosing weight and thinner,”
said Connie Sobczak, founder of the Body Positive, which offers
programs in schools about increasing body satisfaction. “There's
an idea that we should always be striving for weight loss, and
we should not feel beautiful if we're not thinner.”
This body anxiety is getting
passed down to our children, Costin said. “Young girls are
trying on their mother's diets like they're trying on their
mother's high heels.”
Cassie Hoeprich, 16, knows all
about the pressure to be thin. Despite being on the swim team
and playing soccer, she started counting calories in the fourth
grade. During sleepovers, she and her girlfriends would ask one
another what body part they'd most like to change. She'd hear
adults talking about diets and figured she ought to be on one,
too.
She began to overcome her
self-consciousness after joining Body Aloud!, an after-school
program at Carmel Valley's Canyon Crest Academy high school, in
which students put on presentations for other teens about
self-acceptance and body-image pressures. Hoeprich and her
classmates are planning a “Love Your Body Day,” during which
they'll place bathroom scales around the school, replacing
pounds with positive messages.
“Being healthy is not the size
your pants are,” Hoeprich said. “It's how you live your life.
It's listening to your body. Eating when you're hungry and
stopping when you're full; exercising because it makes you feel
good.”
As part of their Body Aloud! training,
students were asked to write a letter to a body part they'd
always hated. Hoeproch apologized to her legs for being so
critical of them. “You can't beat up on yourself all the time,”
she said. “It takes too much energy.”
To encourage such
self-confident attitudes, Wolf, the author and mother of an
11-year-old daughter, recommends women keep a shrine with photos
or art of gorgeous women of all shapes, sizes and ages as a
reminder that beauty comes in many packages.
“There are some young women who
will be enslaved by (unrealistic body images),” said Wolf, who
suffered from anorexia as a teen. “But there's another group of
young women who will be actively critical of the ideal, actively
questioning it and actively rejecting it. It's not like they
never have a bad hair day or say, 'I feel fat.' But they see
through it.”
Rarely, there are even glimmers
that the industries that created the gaunt goddess look are
suffering from stick-figure fatigue.
Dove got oodles of press with
ads that featured ordinary women, sizes 4 to 12, in their
underpants. Earlier this month, Spain's top fashion show
rejected one-third of would-be models for being too thin. Even
ABC is offering up a new comedy on Thursday (Sept 28) called
“Ugly Betty,” starring America Ferrera, the young actress made
famous in the 2002 movie “Real Women Have Curves,” in a show
that celebrates character over looks.
But faced with the
all-consuming starvation aesthetic in today's media, such
efforts are mere morsels. As long as the Mischa Bartons, Kate
Bosworths and Sienna Millers keep getting the parts, the
publicity and the adulation, eating solid food will be
off-limits in Hollywood.
Years after her show was
canceled, Flockhart, who had steadfastedly insisted she was
merely small-boned, not starving herself, admitted that she had
been eating too little and exercising too much during Ally
McBeal. For everyone's sake, let's hope on her new show,
Flockhart finds her way to the catering cart.